Winter in Sweden can be quite harsh, with short days and cold nights. However, winter in Gothenburg has another side – fika in cosy cafe corners, strolling around Christmas markets tasting locally produced jams, and exploring the bare forests on skis. Sweden’s second biggest city, the winter months can be one of the best times to visit Gothenburg, with fewer crowds and cosy Christmas traditions.
Having lived in Gothenburg for almost 3 years, learning to enjoy the long Swedish winters has been vital! Starting and finishing work in the dark, you learn to enjoy the smaller things in life and appreciate the cosiness winter can bring. If you are staying in Gothenburg for a few days, make sure to read through my Gothenburg itinerary for three days of trip ideas, or if you live here, check out these 70 things to do in Gothenburg.
But first, continue reading for a few of my favourite ways to spend time in Gothenburg in the winter!
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Head to a cosy cafe for fika
Fika is one of Sweden’s biggest traditions. If you haven’t heard of it, taking a fika basically means sitting down with friends, family, or colleagues for a coffee and snack (usually a sweet pastry of some sorts) and taking a break from whatever you are doing. In the winter, there is nothing better than sitting down on a cold afternoon with a coffee and watching it get darker and darker outside.
There are so many cosy cafes for fika in Gothenburg, but here are a few favourites you can’t miss! The first is Da Matteo Victoriapassagen. This is a very cosy coffee shop located in Victoria passage. In the winter, the passage is lit with fairy lights and there are often Christmas decorations hanging, creating a magical little escape.
The second recommendation is Café Husaren in Haga. This is the area of Gothenburg known for its homey cafes and unique, designer shops. Café Husaren is well known in Sweden for its giant cinnamon buns. These are a must on your winter visit to Gothenburg. Leading up to Christmas they often have an outdoor market stall with glögg, hot chocolate and pastries for sale.
The last recommendation for fika is Ahlströms Konditori. This is a traditional style bakery and cafe which has been open since 1901. They have some good cakes here and a very cosy outside courtyard area. It’s lovely to sit here in the winter, snuggled up in a blanket and sipping on a warm drink.
You can find all my recommendations for fika in Gothenburg here!
Traditional Winter Swedish fika
Lussebullar
Lussebullar is the traditional fika that appears only before Christmas. These are saffron-flavoured pastries, baked with raisins in the end and best enjoyed with a glass of glögg (Swedish mulled wine). Most cafes serve lussebullar throughout November and December so they are not hard to find.
Semla
Semla, or semlor, are delicious pastries traditionally eaten on Semmeldagen, or Shrove Tuesday in English easter traditions. Nowadays, Semla usually appears at the beginning of February and is available until Easter. Semla is probably one of the decadent Swedish fika, a sweet bun filled with almond paste and whipped cream.
Explore Gothenburg’s Christmas Markets
The best part about Gothenburg in winter is definitely the Christmas festivities. During the months of November and December, there are endless Christmas markets, concerts and events to attend. The whole inner city is lit up with Christmas lights, market stalls open up on street corners selling roasted nuts, glögg and churros, and free concerts fill the air.
Head to Liseberg and wander through the winter wonderland, or down to Tjölöholms Slott for a real traditional market. Sit on the banks of the canal and listen to the choir pass on the paddan, or head to Göteborg’s Konserthuset and listen to the Gothenburg Symphony Choirs’ winter concert. There is so much to do in Gothenburg during these months that it is no wonder Gothenburg is known as Sweden’s Christmas city.
You can find information about all of Gothenburg’s Christmas markets here.
Sledging in Slottskogen
If you are lucky to be met with snow in Gothenburg, then do what the locals do and head to Slottskogen and enjoy sledging down the hills in the snow. You can buy simple sledges (basically plastic plates with handles) from most grocery stores in the winter in Sweden. They are inexpensive and make for so much fun!
A tip is to wear good winter clothes – insulated trousers and a jacket. That way, it doesn’t matter how many times you end up rolling into snow piles.
Heat up in Gothenburg Palmhuset
Palmhuset, Gothenburg Palm House, is a beautiful tropical plant house in the city’s centre. Palmhuset was built in 1878, its design inspired by The Crystal Palace that once stood in Hyde Park, London. Even in the winter, Palmhuset is heated to keep the tropical plants warm. It is a beautiful feeling wandering around here in the middle of winter, seeing the snow fall through the glass windows.
If you are spending the day exploring Gothenburg by foot in winter, a stop here is the perfect way to heat up before heading back outside into the cold.
Head to a Swedish spa
Swedish spas really bring the cosy factor to a cold winter’s day! There are a few within the city but a visit to one further away also makes a good excuse for a day trip from Gothenburg. Not only can you get spa treatments such as massages, but you can also spend a few hours enjoying different saunas, steam rooms, jacuzzis, and in the brave soul’s case – an ice bath!
If you want to stay within Gothenburg, you can head to Upper House Spa or Arken Spa in the north of the city. If you want a day trip, head down to paradise Falkenberg Strandbad, or up to the beautiful seaside town of Smögen for the lovely Smögen’s Hafvsbad. This is our personal favourite – it’s amazing to head down through the snow to their small dock, take a sauna and an ice cold dip in the sea and then head back to the main spa for a few hours.
Find my favourite 10 spas near Gothenburg here!
Cross country skiing in Sisjön
If you are lucky enough to be visiting Gothenburg while there is snow, it is a great opportunity to try some cross-country skiing. In Sisjön, there are three different cross-country skiing tracks which suit all levels of skiers. The shorter, lit-up track is 2.3km and is a great one for beginners. There is also a 5km track and a 7,5km trail.
Sometimes, they wait for enough snow before opening these tracks. So make sure to call in advance to double-check if you plan to try this out!
Want to try more cross-country skiing in Sweden? Head to Sälen or Umeå and spend some time experiencing nature in a different way.
Take a waffle by Skansen Kronan
Skansen Kronan is one of Gothenburg’s best viewpoints, an old fortress on top of the hill behind Haga. One of the cosiest things to do on a cold day is head to the park outside of Skansen Kronan and visit Våffelcafé Soldattorpet. This little red building has a fire throughout the winter and serves waffles, ice cream and drinks. It’s the perfect way to heat up while spending the day wandering around Gothenburg in winter.
Take a sauna by the Gothenburg harbour
Sauna at Frihamnen
One of the most popular places in Gothenburg to visit in winter is the sauna in Frihamnen. This is an area of Gothenburg with a very industrial history that is now being transformed into an area for urban leisure. The sauna at Frihamnen is designed to reflect this industrial past, made mostly out of recycled materials; it is definitely a unique style of architecture.
Make sure to bring swimwear and your own towel when you visit this sauna. You have to book in advance and can find the schedule for mixed, women’s and men’s sauna times on the Gothenburg city website.
Sauna on the island of Dyrön
Alternatively, you can head out to the island of Dyrön, in the more southern end of the Bohuslän archipelago. This is a beautiful island, dotted with houses and pretty red fishing houses, as well as a nature reserve which takes up the majority of the land. It is easy to reach by public transport, with a ferry running year round and transfers from Gothenburg.
On Dyrön, there is a public sauna which is available to rent. You simply book a time slot and call the local ICA supermarket one hour before your time to ask them to turn it on. The sauna is just a short walk from Dyrön harbour, with a dock that leads down into the ocean if you feel like a cold dip in between sessions. This is one of the cosiest activities you can do in the archipelago in winter, plus, a trip out to Dyrön is never a mistake.
You can book the sauna here, or read my complete guide to Dyrön for more tips on visiting the island!
Frequently asked questions
Why visit Gothenburg in the winter?
Gothenburg is one of Sweden’s cosiest cities in the winter, with Christmas lights lighting up the city throughout the long nights. This time of year is the most festive, but also one of the quieter times to visit Gothenburg.
Is Gothenburg worth visiting in the winter?
Yes, Gothenburg is worth visiting in the winter, especially around Christmas time! Don’t miss strolling around Liseberg, tasting local produce and sipping on glögg. Head down to the canal to listen to the choir singing on the Paddan, or simply enjoy a coffee in Haga.
Does it snow in Gothenburg in December?
It occasionally snows in Gothenburg in December but it is not something you can count on. Some years, there is constant snow for weeks, and some years it doesn’t begin to snow until January.
Can you see the northern lights from Gothenburg?
Yes, you can sometimes see the northern lights from Gothenburg but it is a rare occurrence. Gothenburg is quite far south of the arctic circle so the possibility to see the northern lights only happens once or twice a year – less than that some years. To see the northern lights, you are better to head north to Abisko or Umeå during the winter.
